36 Hours in Carmel

Inspired by the New York Times travel series and curated with a true local's touch, this is where to stay, eat, and explore in California’s most charming coastal escape.

Living in Carmel never stops feeling special. For such a small town, it always surprises people how much there is to do here, from wandering hidden courtyards and charming shops to soaking up sunshine in Carmel Valley or stumbling across a new view that takes your breath away. Even in the higher-end haunts, there’s an inviting, unpretentious casualness to life in our part of the world, and I love when visitors get to feel the warmth of our community. But Carmel is so much more than a postcard-perfect tourist destination and nothing makes me happier than sharing my favorite spots with friends, family, and clients who come to celebrate life’s big moments on our coast.

Friday

Settle in and stretch your legs. Carmel is one of the most dog-friendly places on earth, and you’ll notice it right away—many hotels, from budget inns to five-star resorts, happily welcome four-legged guests. Whatever kind of stay you’re after, there’s a spot here for you: adults-only retreats, kid-friendly escapes, intimate boutique inns, or full-service resorts with all the amenities. Once you’ve checked in, head out for your first stroll through town.

Le Petit Pali – Chic, boutique, and right in the heart of town. Come for the design inspo and stay for the pool, house bikes, and complimentary champagne breakfast.
Villa Mara – Luxury, boutique and my interior design aspiration. Away from the Ocean Avenue crowds, this gem of a hotel has a residential vibe that feels like your dream home.
Coachman’s Inn – Charming, super walkable, and more budget-friendly—but with extras you might not expect like an awesome breakfast and happy wine hour.
Carmel Valley Ranch – Resort-style with views, dining, golf, and spa. This sunny oasis is great for couples, families, and groups and has so many on-site activities you won't want to leave.

Explore the "secret" cobblestone passageways leading to the tucked-away courtyards of Carmel-by-the-Sea and pop into our favorite local-owned shops along the way. In San Carlos Square, you'll find Malbon, a must for fashion-minded golfers, and House of Cardoon, a lifestyle boutique in technicolor. Across the street, pick up a signature sweatshirt at Carmel Surf Shop and then wander into Shoshin for home decor inspiration and Tejido Collective for chic women's clothing. For the unexpected gift, I love Somewhere and Owl & Kittycat. Out of the gazillion galleries in town, Monica Graham Fine Art is my hands-down favorite. If your feet need a break, grab a coffee and rental bike from Mad Dogs & Englishmen—they’ll even set you up with a doggy sidecar for a sunset ride along Carmel Beach.




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check in & first stroll

happy hour

I love a relaxed happy hour as a chance to rest, regroup, and reflect on the day so far.

Alvarado Street Brewery – Casual, with local craft beer, small bites and plenty of energy.
Tira Nanza Tasting Room – A hidden gem for sipping local wines in a lovely setting.
The Annex Wine Bar – Folktale Winery's cozy and stylish "in town" bar with a yummy menu of shareable comfort food.

DINNER

Cultura – Modern Oaxacan cuisine. Warm, lively, and a favorite with us locals.
Chez Noir – Exquisite food and atmosphere, this Michelin-starred gem is a must-go even if it's only for a drink and appetizer at the bar (get the abalone—you'll thank me!). 
La Bicyclette – This charming European-inspired spot is all about wood-fired pizzas, rustic pastas, seasonal salads, and a cozy atmosphere that makes you want to hang out for hours.
 

Saturday

Rise + Roam – Coffee, pastries, and casual breakfast that’s as delicious as it is easy.
Dutch Door Donuts – Heavenly fried-to-order donuts and beignets in Carmel Plaza.
Ad Astra Atelier (Carmel Valley) – Already beloved for their artisan breads and pastries, this local bakery has added incredible toasts, sandwiches and more to their new Atelier menu.

coffee—and

Get outside to take in the beauty of Carmel.

Carmel Beach – The perfect morning walk. Soft white sand, off-leash dogs, sweeping views from Point Lobos to Pebble Beach.
Ribera Beach – Skip the parking frenzy at Point Lobos for this under-the-radar spot where you just might have the beach all to yourself. Walking trail, coastal wildflowers, views, tidepools.
Garland Ranch Regional Park (Carmel Valley) – Oak woodlands and river trails. Local's Tip: Avoid the crowded main entrance and enter the serene trails on East Garzas Road.

MORNING ADVENTURE

Head 15 minutes inland to picturesque Carmel Valley for sun, wine and the outdoors. Start with lunch on the patio at Corkscrew Café or Folktale Winery. For something casual, grab a bite in the garden at Earthbound Farmstand, wander their market, and maybe even gather a bouquet in the u-pick fields. From there, spend the afternoon tasting your way through Valley Village. Pelio Estate is a must, and I’m also partial to Georis Winery (bonus: you can have pizza from Corkscrew delivered right to your table). Other great ones are Corral Wine Co and Joyce Winery, while The Wine House is the spot for meeting up with friends. If you’re in the mood for serious relaxation, make sure you carve out some spa time at Refuge. Before you head back, pop into my favorite shop on the Peninsula, Tancredi & Morgen, for a special keepsake or Olivia & Daisy Books for a thoughtfully chosen read.

If you’ve got a little more time, make the 45-minute drive south to Big Sur. Hike the Garrapata Trail for those spectacular cliffside views (and keep an eye out for Calla Lily Valley in spring), then stop at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park to see McWay Falls spill right onto the beach. For lunch, I love the casual vibe at River Inn—grab a drink and settle into one of the Adirondack chairs parked right in the river—or, if you’re in the mood to splurge, head to Alila Ventana for views that will take your breath away. You can also pick up delicious snacks at Big Sur Bodega and head down to Pfeiffer Beach. Don’t miss browsing Mother Botanical Shop or wandering the Henry Miller Memorial Library—both places capture that creative Big Sur spirit perfectly.
  

LUNCH + AFTERNOON: EXPLORE CARMEL VALLEY OR BIG SUR

Mission Ranch Hotel – Enjoy a casual cocktail while taking in one of the most stunning views in Carmel, with sheep grazing in the pasture and the ocean beyond.
Sunset Lounge at Carmel Highlands Inn – The cocktails are great, but let's not kid ourselves—it's all about that view.
The Inn at Spanish Bay (Pebble Beach) – Grab a spot at the outdoor fire pits and listen to the  iconic bagpiper play as the sun goes down over gorgeous Spanish Bay. Perfection.

sunset spot

Carmel isn't known for it's nightlife scene, but there's plenty to do if you know where to look. Start with dinner, then pair it with a little local entertainment:

Fuel up at lively Baja Cantina, then head over to Hacienda Hay & Feed for their popular Saturday Night Line Dancing.
Grab dinner-to-go from Toro Sushi and catch an outdoor performance at The Forest Theater.
Dine at Stationæry before taking in a show at The Sunset Center.
Or make it a Valley evening with dinner at Lucia followed by music at Hidden Valley Music Seminary.

If you’re in the mood for a nightcap, you can't beat Bud’s Bar at the historic La Playa Hotel—full of charm, with excellent cocktails and live music. For something a bit more casual, Brophy’s Tavern and Barmel are always a good time. And if you’re after a dive bar vibe, Sade’s is as close as Carmel-by-the-Sea gets—though an Uber to The Running Iron in Carmel Valley will get you the real deal.

night out

Sunday

Stationæry – A favorite of locals and critics alike, Stationæry truly lives up to the hype. This is elevated breakfast, but in a beautifully relaxed setting. BTW, dinner is just as good.
From Scratch – Hearty, classic, crowd-pleasing brunch.
La Bicyclette – Delicious breakfast in a charming, French-inspired setting. 
Folktale Winery (Carmel Valley) – Stylish outdoor garden dining. 

brunch

One last stroll on Carmel Beach.
Wander the Mid Valley Carmel Farmer's Market (Sundays only)
Enjoy the bounty at Earthbound Farms if you didn't get there already.


last hurrah

Bear + Flag Roadside – Casual spot for gourmet sandwiches, awesome BBQ, fresh salads, snacks, and wine by the bottle.
Radici Market at Hacienda Hay & Feed – My favorite place for delicious grab-and-go sandwiches, salads, and treats to take home.

road snacks

Insider Tips

Calendar of Events: For in-depth coverage of Carmel’s special people and places, plus a calendar of under-the-radar events, check out Concept Carmel. To see what’s happening while you’re here, from festivals to gatherings, visit Monterey County Now.

Car Week (August): Concours d'Elegance takes over Carmel. Expect traffic, crowds, and fully booked restaurants. 

Layers, Always: Weather can change quickly along the coast—pack for misty mornings and chilly evenings regardless of season.

Sun vs. Fog: Carmel-by-the-Sea days often start out foggy, especially in June and July ("June Gloom" is very real here). For guaranteed sunshine, head 15 minutes inland to Carmel Valley, where clear skies are the norm.

Ribera Beach